[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Beautify 404 page (#1550)

[Andy Allan]

I like in particular the idea that you should be able to click from the error page and get back to the home page. I've extracted this idea into [a separate PR](#2362), which just makes the logo clickable, rather than adding more words, and avoids hardcoding the URL.

There's a few other things that I would suggest changing on this PR, in particular the ASCII smiley, which is unlikely to translate well into other languages, and the CSS too. However I think that would mean there's not much left here to work with. So I'm going to close this in favour of the other PR.

Thanks for the proposals, in particular the concept of linking back to the home page, which I agree would be an improvement.

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