[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Upgrade to Rails 6 (#2352)

[Tom Hughes]

So CPK is now available and with that installed and page caching disabled I have most tests passing.

There's a few that are failing on `div_for` and friends (which needs the record_tag_helper update) and also some that seem to be trigger what I think is a bug in rails that I have narrowed down and [reported](https://github.com/rails/rails/issues/37167).

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