[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Introduce Dark Mode (WIP) (#3028)

[pkrasicki]

![darkmode](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/49721209/103459292-27ee4000-4d06-11eb-8aae-b476eceadbf4.png)
You shouldn't use black color for backgrounds. Use dark gray, it will be easier to read the page.

You will need to make those green buttons lighter and link color (both purple and blue) is too dark as well.

Links in top right need to be a little lighter too. Perhaps use white color for current page.

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