[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Traces#index: Introduce tab navigation, fix tag-filter (#3034)

[Andy Allan]

I've included the patch from @migurski that got the tests working, along with some changes from myself (instead of adding them here as review notes) in #3226 . 

Therefore I'm closing this as superceded by #3226

Thanks for the initial work @tordans , I think the tabs look great and I can see us using them in other situations too!

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