[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Improve handling of RTL styling (PR #4353)

[Andy Allan]

> So this PR switches our RTL support to use RTLCSS meaning that those directives are obeyed and various bugs go away and overrides in our source can be removed - it also gives us access to a much richer set of customisation directives for future use.

Awesome, thanks for digging into this. 

> After all that I hit [rubyjs/mini_racer#289](https://github.com/rubyjs/mini_racer/issues/289) which prevents `mini_racer` installing in the GitHub Actions ruby 3.0 or 3.1 environments - sadly upstream seem to have given up on it once they figured out 3.2 works but I managed to find a workaround after much digging.

Not just github actions, because I ran into this with my own system too (I'm using ruby 3.0 for this project).

I'm going to open a separate issue to discuss this since it's not directly related to RTLCSS.


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