[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode for maps (Issue #5328)

[Schorsch]

I agree with @scaidermern - keep the dark UI itself and get the map back to normal as quick as possible. 

Afterwards (or now) open a thread about the map itself in the Discourse-Forum as this is where a lot of users of OSM are (i guess way more than here) and where a discussion about stuff like this should(!) happen at first in my opinion. I will open a thread about this. 

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