[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode for maps (Issue #5328)

[Oscar McNoe]

@hlfan adding an option only for logged in users still doesn't fix the dimmed tiles issue for anyone who's not logged into an account, which I'd guess is a majority of users?

The dimmed tiles will still be the **default** option for all visitors to the site.

The dimmed tiles are just really bad UX. Maybe they can be kept as an optional non-default choice for users who want that.

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