[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[Anton Khorev]

> Sure, but I think appearance and language are important enough to be quickly accessible at all times, like on Wikipedia.

UI language is not quickly accessible on Wikipedia:

![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/a82c5df4-7d7a-4e44-a115-34f198424cb1)


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