[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode (#2332)

[Luka S]

Agreed, the current darkened map does not look great, especially as iD does not yet support dark mode at all, and so there's a bit of a jump on editing.

Maybe some layers can be changed for dark mode? Whilst I usually agree that I don't like dark mode maps, I make an exception for Tracestrack's Dark 3 raster/vector variant (https://console.tracestrack.com/explorer), since it keeps the sea blue and the land green IYSWIM.

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