[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use CSS filter instead of dimming tiles (PR #5325)

[mxdanger]

For the time being this should be discussed in depth and not treated as a "quick fix". Theres serious implications to changing the color of a map that has been meticulously colored and iterated on for the past decade. Realistically, I don't expect a "default" dark map theme until the vector map is released.

However, for the time being, the existing dimming filter on the map should absolutely be removed as a quick fix.

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