[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode for maps (Issue #5328)

[Nekzuris]

@gravitystorm It's also because the Carto render is iconic to OpenStreetMap, many people only recognize OSM by this map style and changing it makes it feel unfamiliar. 
Even if we already had a proper dark render, I would still want to see the light Carto render for some tasks without having to disable the dark UI.

> It's unfortunate that some people experience it, but I see no reason to think that it's super popular.

Just deploy it, we’ll see if many people complain 😅

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