[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode bugs/improvements for the UI (Issue #5329)

[Dimitar]

The numbers on profile pages are hard to read.

![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/f2dd05ff-047d-4188-9e5b-1fe3f7acbc95)

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The popovers (or whatever these balloons are called) should have dark background, right?
![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/e45759a7-b55d-4fb0-9dd1-726136f5a926)

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Some items in the map legend are hard or almost impossible to see, others have distorted colours (major roads for example). The screenshot is from zoom level 17.
![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/be6cdeed-16a8-4529-9f19-dc87c14636d5)

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The buttons on each message in the inbox and outbox should probably use outline buttons. 
![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/6a0d79ec-5404-4fbc-aba7-6b12b3c4205e)


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