[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode (#2332)

[saxbophone]

Hi, the latest change to OSM regarding this has actually made it much harder for me to use because of how low-contrast the map now is. I would actually say, in my opinion it would be more preferable from an accessibility POV to _not_ honour the user's dark mode preferences than it would be to show a low-contrast map like this.

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