[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode for maps (Issue #5328)

[mxdanger]

Dimming the map was probably the worst possible thing contributors (cough cough @AntonKhorev) could have done. It's a terrible stop gap solution and it really did fumble the launch of dark mode. What could have been a nice update that just made the UI dark, they _really_ just had to mess with the map even though nothing was discussed (aside from one maintainer approval).

In any case the fact that the dimmed map is STILL in prod is very problematic. Until this issue is resolved the map should be reverted back to the default.

> It's normal for users to be afraid of UI changes even when they are good for them long term.

@pkrasicki The "hacky" way of using filters to override the existing tile map to get the dark mode map is not good long term.

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