[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[Andrew]

It’s unfortunate that a website has to consider implementing this at all. Ideally it could just respect `prefers-color-scheme` and let the browser handle asking/remembering your preference.

[![browser UI for dark mode preference per-site](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cda2041d-d8cc-4ff8-b513-6c1d71fbf4b0)](https://blog.jim-nielsen.com/2022/browser-level-color-scheme-preference/)

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