[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode (#2332)

[tomFlowee]

> this will work to restore the light mode map, but it will also stop saving your eyes ;-)

I'm for one happy with the hack as it actually saves my eyes. Not sure why you have the opposite experience. Looking at the OSM map before this css hack is painful, being forced to make out details in a low contrast map is very tiring to the eyes.

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