[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode for maps (Issue #5328)

[Marwin Hochfelsner]

I made a little utility to try out filter combinations more easily:
https://codepen.io/hlfan/full/GRVVGog
For convenient editing in the dev tools, the outputted filter is stored in a custom property and the filter is also applied to the SVG that holds the filters.

My first insight from using it:
The ÖPNVKarte didn't work well with the `invert()hue-rotate(.5turn)` method, as it made tram and subway lines barely distinguishable, but this goes away with another inversion method.

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