[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[Andy Allan]

> "let's make everyone have no filter until _the cartographers_ let them have some filter"?

Technically that depends on the discussion in #5328. It doesn't strictly matter how dark mode maps are implemented, in order to have this preference available and useful.

But yes, since my preference is for cartographers to choose what each "light mode map" and "dark mode map" looks like, then if you choose the "map preference = dark", then you would see whatever the cartographers have chosen - whether that's implemented by filters or alternative tile urls or the same cartography for each mode.

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