[Tile-serving] [openstreetmap/mod_tile] Add support for mapnik falling back to pkg-config if mapnik-config is not present (Issue #303)

[Hummeltech]

Hey @nmaludy, great thinking!

I was working on resolving this issue and #304 [here](https://github.com/openstreetmap/mod_tile/compare/master...hummeltech:mod_tile:Mapnik4), you can see [it passing in GitHub Actions](https://github.com/hummeltech/mod_tile/actions/runs/4145443260/jobs/7169805677) as well.

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