[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Upgrade to Yarn v3 (PR #3515)

[Andy Allan]

Thanks for splitting this into a separate PR, since changes to yarn are unrelated to change to bundler.

At first glance I have some serious concerns about this PR, so it would be good to update this PR with a lot more information. For example, what is the purpose of the upgrade? Does it fix anything in particular, is the old version of yarn blocking you from something, or is it just a maintenance task, or something else? (All are valid answers!)

Additionally:
* What is the 2.0MB of javascript in .yarn/releases ? Is this a full copy of yarn? If so, why do we need to have it in our own repository? We try to avoid copy+pasting external dependencies into this repo, and aim to only have code here that we intend to maintain ourselves. Why not use distribution packages for yarn like we do now?
* What implications are there for moving away from node_modules? Are all of our modules going to work under the alternative yarn system? Will it impact us when we want to add more modules in the future?
* Why is the --ignore-engines flag removed? It was added for a reason (see https://github.com/openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website/issues/3275 ) and so removing it should explain why it's no longer necessary.

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