[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use map tiles dark mode without leaflet-osm plugin (PR #5397)

[Marwin Hochfelsner]

Given my limited familiarity with this repo, I decided to place cornerstones in the space of possibilities I saw rather than try for a perfect solution the first few times without much feedback.

But now that I see a more modular solution I'll put this PR on hold too, just fixing the missing filter propagation, and move on to attempt 3 to avoid cluttering up the history.

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