[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use map tiles dark mode without leaflet-osm plugin (PR #5397)

[Tom Hughes]

> But I found it too hacky to overwrite the class's properties from the instance each time, and I especially wanted to avoid using `__proto__`. Yet I couldn't find a way to do that.

I don't see any reason why what I was suggesting would need any of that but I've actually come up with a better solution now.

What really bothered me was having the URL sometimes in leaflet-osm and sometimes here, so what I've done is to add a new `TransportDarkMap` layer to leaflet-osm in https://github.com/openstreetmap/leaflet-osm/commit/ebfaf22426c265aaf3f401d70ffd02ca920623c9.

So now we can have a `leafletOsmDarkId: "TransportDarkMap"` key in `layers.yml` and if that key exists we construct that layer instead of the normal one and then don't do any filtering.

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