[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[Anton Khorev]

> [This proposal](https://github.com/openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website/issues/5324#issuecomment-2480755496) is much better

Only if you look at it in isolation, because there's also #5201 and you can't have a button in the header for every possible setting.

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