[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode (#2332)

[tomFlowee]

This seems to have been rolled out on the main website.

At least, the main website has some css trick to make the tiles darker on my firefox on desktop.

The unfortunate downside of this solution is that I can't use the website anymore. The contrast is too low, the text has become unreadable. 
The point of dark mode is not to make everything darker, this seems to be the effect gained but that is the opposite of what people that use dark mode actually want.
The entire point of dark mode is to increase contrast, this is gained by having light text on dark background.

The current iteration of openstreetmap.org is unusable due to extremely low contrast. Please consider reverting until a better solution can be found.

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