[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode (#2332)

[tomFlowee]

For what it is worth, as someone that loves dark mode and even has an AMOLED display that makes a pure black background very easy on the eyes,
for someone that is a fan of dark mode, I don't want my normal map usage to have tiles that have a dark background.

Only while driving I like having dark background with white street/city names, for a map that has very low amount of detail. But for normal usage, which is 100% of what I'd do on OSm.org, I don't want my tiles to be anything other than the beautiful color-theme that the site has shipped for years.

This "feauture" should at minimum be opt-in.

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