[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[DaveF63]

> What I'm interested in is why you want dark mode for everything else, but not for OSM.

Because it dims the graphic screen!
@gravitystorm is incorrect to perceive "dark mode for the maps is off-topic"
They are determinately intertwined.

I think the obvious needs pointing out - this is on the front of house screen. it's the first thing newcomers see, and when I say "see" I really mean they can't see because it's too dark!

I've thought about this since it's implementation & I'm struggling to comprehend how everybody involved in alpha & beta testing looked at the webpage in front of them & thought, 'yeah, that's a great way to promote OSM to the masses.'

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