[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Add light/dark mode preference (Issue #5324)

[CrabstickOMalley]

> Having a dark menu bar is nice, but simply dimming the map is just not acceptable. Maybe as a first step towards a truly dark mode, but please, please, please make it easy for the user to switch back to light mode. The toggle is a must!

THIS EXACTLY.  The menu dark is fine but the map itself should have a control or option or no dimming at all.  I'd be happy to have all the rest of the hipsterprogrammerforcedoneverybody Dark Mode but don't DIM THE MAP!?!?? 

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