[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode bugs/improvements for the UI (Issue #5329)

[Swarkin]

For the future, can we get a map dark mode similar to how the Dark Reader extension does it?
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![image](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/7532a643-1045-4fb3-b351-d2e32ed44151)

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