[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Dark Mode bugs/improvements for the UI (Issue #5329)

[Nekzuris]

The control buttons don't change in dark mode, I think that's good, but the tooltip shouldn't change then.
current dark mode vs light mode
![dark](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/4832f8ea-1b79-41d0-8aa2-12f6ae175db5) ![light](https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/0da60b4b-b797-44ff-9780-1689a33d3849)

And I don't think the lighter background behind the 𝐢 looks good.


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