[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use map tiles dark mode from leaflet-osm plugin (PR #5426)

[Marwin Hochfelsner]

Yes, however, I can already hear the question "why are you adding a no-dark-filter class to the cyclemap that only sets filter:none instead of inheriting filter:none?" coming up in the new PR, as this doesn't need half of the changes here.

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