[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use map tiles dark mode from leaflet-osm plugin (PR #5426)

[Andy Allan]

> As it stands this only works correctly for the transport layer that has a dark variant - for all other layers it disables the filtering when in dark mode.

I think it's important here to note that we decided in #5328 that only filters approved by the cartographers should be applied. Since currently no cartographers have chosen any filters, then it's expected that any existing filtering (e.g. `darken`) would be removed by default, until we hear back from some other cartographers.

@hlfan could you also work on the point that @tomhughes raised with regards to setting classes instead of using inline styles? 

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