[openstreetmap/openstreetmap-website] Use map tiles dark mode without leaflet-osm plugin (PR #5397)

[Marwin Hochfelsner]

@tomhughes This is also further than I anticipated it would go.

But I found it too hacky to overwrite the class's properties from the instance each time, and I especially wanted to avoid using `__proto__`. Yet I couldn't find a way to do that.

But then I stumbled upon #5386 and its new layer definition handler that allowed me to eliminate those hacks since this would specify the scheme on the instance creation.

Also not involving leaflet-osm at all would increase the flexibility with things like SVG filters, where I don't see an easy option to have that sourced from JS nicely.

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